Design

Pattern of Charles of Blois, from Costume History, Payne, pg 539.

I began SCA fighting at the tender age of 15.  I wore a gambeson made from a moving pad, with out arms, for years until it disintegrated in the wash after one too many washings.

Having seen a few gambesons at A&S competitions, I decided to try making one that suited my armor and looked more period than a Mad Max costume.

The original garment that I used as my inspiration was the Pourpoint of Charles of Blois, 1367, which is now in the Musee Historique des Tissus in Lyon.  Though this is a civilian garment, it’s inspiration was no doubt taken from military garments of the time (History of Costume, Blanche Payne, pg.180).  I also drew upon the look of the Jupon of Charles VI of France, in Chartes Cathedral.

Charles of Blois, Pourpoint, Musee Historique des Tissus, Lyon.

The sleeve design utilizes the bias of fabric to allow a tight fitting sleeve that allows for greater mobility than would be expected.  The grand assiette style sleeve means that the armhole is much larger and covers the chest and back.  This also allows for a tighter fit and more flexibility.

I made my original gambesons with thick padding, and while the padding quilted was almost adequate body protection in and of itself, the loft of the fabric trapped in too much heat.  I have since switched to a simple cotton felt, Warm and Natural, used in quilt making, because it allows for breathability with a degree of padding.

Finally the buttons.  As you can see from the Charles of Blois Pourpoint, there are quite a few.  The buttons along the body and sleeve were reduced.  I only have one button at the wrist to accomdate for a vambrace, and the buttons along the front were spaced out so you didn’t spend all day getting into or out of the garment.  I have made some with lace holes, but reports back were that the added time didn’t justify the flat front.  Everyone who has worn this garment with a brigandine or breasplate seems to find the convenience of the buttons worth the  need to occasionally replace one or two.

I’ve made some changes to the original pattern to better suit the purpose it’s used for, fighting, and to more easily adjust for size.  Not all of use are shaped with a wasp waist and broad shoulders, but with a little fiddling it can be made to accomodate most shapes and sizes.